#throwbackthursday review: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London

This is a semi repost from my tumblr; apologies for the crappy iPhone pics.

After seeing a Christmas matinee showing of the Nutcracker by the Royal Ballet and getting to see one of my faves, Federico Bonelli, dance, we made our way over to the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park to dine at one of the most anticipated restaurants on our trip. Because of the ridiculous demand for a table here, we had to book three months in advance, on the day that bookings opened for the date we wanted. The effort, though, was mostly worth it.

Starters: Salamugundy and Meat Fruit

You probably can’t come to Dinner without getting the Meat Fruit. It’s the house’s signature dish and one which comes with a great deal of hype. M got it because he’s a bigger fan of liver parfait than I but we stole bits off each other’s plates anyway. In this case, I was so glad he let me steal as much as I wanted because it was even more delicious than I had imagined. While I find that liver parfait/paté can often be a bit iron-y and heavy, this was light as anything, perfectly smooth and the flavour was just unbelievable. A lot has already been written about this dish so there’s not much I can contribute other than to say that I regret not ordering 10 of these. I got the Salamugundy, which although no Meat Fruit, was still very delicious. It also introduced to now one of my new favourite vegetables: salsify.


Mains: Hereford Ribeye & Black Foot Pork Neck

To say that M loves pork is a bit of an understatement so it was no surprise that he chose the pork main. I didn’t really try it but according to him, it was great. Obviously the Iberian Black Footed Pig (pata negra, from which jamon iberico is made) is the king of swines so I imagine it was pretty bloody delicious. I was however too busy wolfing down my steak to pay attention to his pork. The steak, although it doesn’t look that amazing in the photo (nor in person), it was the by far the best steak I have ever had (and beats anything I've had since by a mile). It was just amazingly tender, juicy and flavoursome, to the point that it has probably ruined all other steaks for me. The triple cooked chips that accompanied it were also amazing, although I wasn’t crazy about the mushroom ketchup.

Desserts: Brown Bread Ice Cream & Chocolate Bar
 

M is a huge chocolate lover so his dessert really hit the spot for him. Mine was a different story, sadly. Whilst on paper it sounded right up my alley, I really really didn’t enjoy the Brown Bread Ice Cream. I found the taste strange and eating the brown bread ice cream by itself was frankly, disgusting. One was meant to eat it all together but even then I couldn’t get over the flavour of the ice cream. The dessert as a whole was also just too sweet for me. I’m not a huge dessert person and this just wasn’t to my tastes at all.

The setting was as beautiful as you would imagine for a restaurant of this calibre. The service was very polished and attentive, but did have that air of stuffiness which I could do without. But alas, I suppose I can't expect the service everywhere to be like that of the Ledbury. Overall, though, we had a great time at Dinner and would definitely go again. We'll get the opportunity to soon enough since a Dinner will permanently open at Crown in Melbourne, at the site where the Fat Duck will be stationed during its 6 month stay.

Photo of the week: hot pot @ Home Taste, Edinburgh

Our visit to Home Taste holds so many great memories for me. We found it after wandering the streets of Old Town looking for a feed since I didn't want to go for a pub meal. After circling a few times and finding nothing else that took our fancy, we settled on a little Chinese restaurant with steamed up windows. The steam was actually very inviting on that night since it was a typically frigid Scottish January evening. The restaurant's awkwardly endearing name may have also helped win me over.

Once in there I was instantly glad of my choice because it turned out (as hinted by the steam) that they served...HOTPOT!!! One of my favourite things in the world and certainly a top candidate for my death row meal. Another pleasing sight was that the restaurant was filled with Chinese students who were clearly craving a bit of 'home taste'. And the meal itself was fantastic: the condiments, the broth and the ingredients used were what they should be for a good hotpot; and they didn't scrimp when topping up the ingredients. The chef also adorably came out and offered us some fried dumplings while tentatively speaking Mandarin to me. At £15 per person for all you can eat including a drink (we chose hot tea) it was a bargain, especially given the favourable exchange rate at the time. As cheesy as it sounds, the restaurant definitely lived up to its name, serving up a warm taste of home on the other side of the world.

#throwbackthursday review: The Ledbury, London

The Ledbury’s reputation preceded it and we were prepared to be disappointed, but it truly lived up to its hype and then some. Looking back on it, it's definitely one of the greatest dining experiences we've had to date.

We had the tasting menu which at about £100 a head, was actually really good value. Yes, that is expensive but many restaurants of its calibre charge significantly more, and the food and the service justified it. This is simply not the case with a lot of these 'modern', Michelin starred, hatted, top 100 list-esque restaurants. Yes there are many great ones, but there are also many that don't justify the prices they charge and don't deserve the accolades. The Ledbury sits firmly in the 'great' camp.

The experience was truly memorable. Everything was just so creative and utterly delicious. We started with (three?) amuse-bouches and the house made bread which was generously dished out throughout the evening. My favourite  proper course of the night was the mackerel while the simple pre-dessert of a clementine granita with meringue is up there with the Torija at Tickets (review to come) as the best dessert I've ever had.

But while the food deserves the abounding superlatives thrown at it, it's the Ledbury's service, ambiance and overall 'experience' which truly sets it apart. In contrast to that at Pollen Street Social, the service here, while unmistakably refined, was not at all stuffy and pretentious. The service was just genuinely friendly, warm and not at all in your face. The sommelier who served us was sympathetic to the mild stomach complaint I brought with me that evening and diligently got me a ginger ale to calm my belly. M still talks about the amazing Americano coffee he was served here and the way they poured it right at the table. It was definitely the perfect antidote to what was mostly very mediocre coffee throughout the continent. What also contributed to the overall experience was the low-key glamour of the restaurant's fit out and how perfectly the place absorbed sound; sitting there in a packed restaurant, you could have honestly heard a pin drop—even though most of the clientele were having animated conversations. But what really completed the evening for me (not so much M who has a rather perplexing aversion to fruit) was the addition of fresh clementines (so fresh that I suspect they were straight off the tree) with our petit fours. I am a huge fruit lover and being given two fresh and perfect little fruits to complete my meal just completely won me over.

We left the restaurant completely satisfied and gushing madly, plotting how soon we would be back.

Photo of the week: Guilin Mifen noodles in Beihai, China

These noodles are traditional in Guangxi Automonous Region in China. Simple round rice noodles in a clear broth with sliced beef, fried peanuts, pickled beans, and herbs. Delicious and comforting, I've eaten this since I was a small child. I still have a few bowls every time I go back.

Scotch whisky review: Laphroaig 25 year old cask strength 2008 edition

What: Laphroaig 25yo Cask Strength Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky – 2008 Edition
Where: On the Shelf – London Whisky Exchange, In a bar – Eau de Vie, Melbourne (doesn't have the cask strength, only the regular—and reportedly inferior—version), possibly Whisky and Alement, Melbourne
The damage: ~$650 (bottle, likely more in an Australian retailer) ~$80 (shot)

As a celebration after getting a new job, I opened the bottle of Laphroaig 25yo Scotch Whisky that R and I had bought together in London and which I'd been saving for a special occasion.

On opening the bottle, the briney smell of the ocean, mixed with the traditional woodsmoke of Islay malts and a faint note of honey wafted out into the room. Sealed inside for a quarter century, these powerful aromas only got more powerful and intoxicating as I raised the glass.

Upon adding a few drops of water to open up the ‘nose’ of the scotch, the honey, sea and smoke were joined by an intense summer fruit smell, all red apples and berried, mixed with the peaty scent of the fires that had boiled the barley mash into a spirit. Swishing the liquor around in the glass it looked golden in the light and left elegant, treacle thick, peacock tails where it ran down the crystal. Quite a sight.

Finally taking a sip, the initial notes were spicy and sweet, like a richly flavoured mince pie. As I held it in my mouth to let the flavor develop, a deep peaty liquorice emerged and grew to coat our mouths. When I swallowed it, it barely felt like liquid going down the throat, more like a congealed smoke. It didn’t burn (despite being 50.9% alcohol) rather it left the throat dry, like a breath in the desert. This feeling lingered pleasantly for a long time after.

An amazing whisky experience, I would encourage you to try it! However this edition is now pretty rare worldwide and would be difficult to find in Australia, especially in the cask strength and 2008 edition. The 2011 or later editions may be your best bet.

#throwbackthursday review: Pollen Street Social, London

This is a semi repost from my tumblr.

I had wanted to book either the Ledbury or Pollen Street Social for a birthday dinner but alas, being a Saturday, they were booked out. I did, however, manage to score a lunch spot at PSS and given the rave reviews and the promised relaxed dining experience, I was very excited.

I had very high expectations and I guess I set myself up for disappointment. And disappointed I was. It’s not that it was bad, it just wasn’t very good.

It started off badly with my pink lemonade mocktail. Kinda disgusting to my tastes since it had pink grapefuit it in. It would have been much better with strawberry or raspberry. A similar drink I had at a bar near Tottenham Court Road made with rapsberry and elderflower cordial was delicious.

The food itself was nicely presented. But restaurants that serve nicely presented good food are a dime a dozen. To be fair, we only got the set lunch (I think it was £40 per person?) and my lunch buddy G’s dishes were better than mine, but I had other reasons to be disappointed. I was very let down by my dish of Roast cod with squid and beans in a consomme/broth. The last dish I had featuring squid and beans I've already posted about. The one here at PSS was just blah in comparison. Nothing special, and overseasoned. And I like my food salty. I also found the restaurant ambience unwelcoming and stuffy, like a lot of the fine dining restaurants of old. It’s not that the waiters weren’t professional or attentive, they were. It’s just that they lacked warmth and genuine enthusiasm. If I could describe the service in two words, it would be: tepid and awkward.

Maybe I was just spoiled by the Ledbury (review to come). I wouldn’t even rate PSS as highly as my experience at Galvin at Windows. At least that had nice views and an amusing French waiter.

Quick review: Cumulus Inc lunch rolls and Le Bon Ton, Melbourne

Cumulus Inc 
Cumulus Inc, a favourite of ours (and apparently of Yotam Ottolenghi), has started offering rolls for $10 as a weekday lunch. This, in combination with the fact that it’s near my work meant I couldn’t say no. Darting over from the office, I scooped up one of their pulled pork rolls for a lunch on the run. It was worth the short trek. The pork was melt in the mouth soft, expertly rendered and perfectly seasoned. What’s more it was threaded through with thin strips of oven-crisp crackling. But honestly the meat wasn’t even the star of the show. That came nestled on either side of the meat: On top, a crisp coleslaw richly flavoured with coriander and Thai basil, which perfectly cut through the richness of the pork. Beneath, my new favourite condiment – Sriracha Mayo! Kewpie by itself, good. Sriracha by itself, good. Together? PERFECT. Highly recommended, although the menu changes day to day, so your roll may differ!

Le Bon Ton
Called the ‘Smoker’s Lot’, this generous meat platter from ‘Le Bon Ton’ is in and of itself a reason to visit the Carlton based bar and southern themed smoke house. For $49 you get generous helpings of Angus brisket, pulled pork shoulder and apple basted chicken as well as a cheese loaded jalapeno hot link sausage.

Starting with the link sausage: excellent. It oozed flavour (along with melted cheese), although the chili hit was potent.

The chicken next, and to be honest, I could take it or leave it. Le Bon Ton outdid themselves with the four legged beasts, however the bird was a bit lacking.

The brisket more than redeemed it though. You could taste the grass and grain that had fed the animal, and the hours of smoking basically meant it basically evaporated into a mild beef and wood smoke flavour upon hitting my tongue.

Last, and perhaps best of all, the pulled pork. Exceptional. I am a big fan of pulled pulled pork, and this was one for the ages. Worth the trip for it alone. Definitely made me want to book a repeat visit to sample a wider range of their menu.

Food photo of the week: lunch @ Les Saisons, Paris

First meal after being reunited with M in Paris. Entrée was Scottish Salmon 'Tataki' (which has apparently become fashionable in the City of Lights) with horseradish cream and some delicious saucisson.

No photos of the mains, we were too busy eating.

Pho @ My's Vietnamese, Canberra

I'll just come right out and say it: best pho in Canberra.

Until I tried the one at My's I thought Pho Phu Quoc in Dickson was the best pho in Canberra. When assessing a good pho, I look out for three things: the noodles (they have to be fresh\and they have to have a bit of integrity and chew—soft mushy noodles is a no no); the beef (it should be super thin and actually rare/raw when the pho gets to the table); and most of all, the broth (it should have a depth of flavour and you should be able to taste the spices—cinnamon, star anise etc).

The pho at My's ticks all those boxes but at $14.95 a bowl, it is kinda pricey for pho, perhaps even by Canberra standards. Still, that and the fact that Weston Creek isn't exactly close to where I live are definitely not enough for me to turn me off—evidenced by my going back for a second bowl only a few days after I had my first.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend their other stuff though, the two other dishes we tried (their beef hotpot and caramel pork) weren't exactly spectacular.

#throwbackthursday review: lunch @ Galvin at Windows, London

This is a semi repost from my tumblr.

Located on the 28th floor of the Park Lane Hilton Hotel, this restaurant has stunning 360º views of London. Unfortunately on the day that we went, it was typical London weather so the view wasn't as spectacular as it could have been.

M was in town visiting and we wanted to check out Galvin and their (£30p.p??) lunch special  before bounding off for some shopping on nearby Bond St. Nothing we had that day appears on their menu anymore so I won’t be talking in too much detail about the food.

As is common with these sorts of things, we started off with a 'complimentary' amuse bouche of (if I remember correctly) a jerusalem artichoke puree. For starters I had the slow cooked hen's egg* (the first time they were serving this dish at Galvin) while M opted for the soup with chicken liver parfait. My dish was probably the best of what we had that day while M's was pretty forgettable. My main was skate wing with mussels, sea vegetables and salsify in a seafood broth while M got ever ubiquitous pork belly. Neither mains were spectacular but I did enjoy the addition of salsify to my main, after having recently introduced to the vegetable during our outing at Dinner by Heston (review to come). My main ended up being gifted because the chef had left a pastry brush bristle in the dish. Honestly, I didn’t even notice; I picked it out and put it on the side of my plate but I thought it was a frond from a mussel or from one of the vegetables but our waiter informed us (through some adorably staggered English; he was French like most/all the waitstaff at Galvin) that it was a brush bristle and that for this reason it would be comped. To finish, we got some cute house-made marshmallows and chocolates. As you would expect, the restaurant itself was gorgeous and the service was pleasant and very attentive. All in all it was a pleasant experience aided by nice service, the setting and the best company I could have asked for.

*I always find it hilarious when restaurants describe eggs as a 'hen's egg' to try and jazz up the stock standard egg. I can obviously understand when it's something like a duck or quail egg but those aren't stock standard eggs so the description actually adds something, but such is not the case with 'hen's eggs'.