Sunday 7 December 2014

Scotch whisky review: Laphroaig 25 year old cask strength 2008 edition


What: Laphroaig 25yo Cask Strength Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky – 2008 Edition
Where: On the Shelf – London Whisky Exchange, In a bar – Eau de Vie, Melbourne (doesn't have the cask strength, only the regularand reportedly inferiorversion), possibly Whisky and Alement, Melbourne
The damage: ~$650 (bottle, likely more in an Australian retailer) ~$80 (shot)

As a celebration after getting a new job, I opened the bottle of Laphroaig 25yo Scotch Whisky that R and I had bought together in London and which I'd been saving for a special occasion.

On opening the bottle, the briney smell of the ocean, mixed with the traditional woodsmoke of Islay malts and a faint note of honey wafted out into the room. Sealed inside for a quarter century, these powerful aromas only got more powerful and intoxicating as I raised the glass.

Upon adding a few drops of water to open up the ‘nose’ of the scotch, the honey, sea and smoke were joined by an intense summer fruit smell, all red apples and berried, mixed with the peaty scent of the fires that had boiled the barley mash into a spirit. Swishing the liquor around in the glass it looked golden in the light and left elegant, treacle thick, peacock tails where it ran down the crystal. Quite a sight.

Finally taking a sip, the initial notes were spicy and sweet, like a richly flavoured mince pie. As I held it in my mouth to let the flavor develop, a deep peaty liquorice emerged and grew to coat our mouths. When I swallowed it, it barely felt like liquid going down the throat, more like a congealed smoke. It didn’t burn (despite being 50.9% alcohol) rather it left the throat dry, like a breath in the desert. This feeling lingered pleasantly for a long time after.

An amazing whisky experience, I would encourage you to try it! However this edition is now pretty rare worldwide and would be difficult to find in Australia, especially in the cask strength and 2008 edition. The 2011 or later editions may be your best bet.

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